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Bozcaada Tenedos / Τένεδος
Town
Country	Turkey
Region	Marmara
Province	Çanakkale
De jure	Semi-autonomous district of Imbros and Tenedos
Government
• Mayor	Mustafa Mutay (DP)
Area
• Total	37.6 km (14.5 sq mi)
Population
• Total	2,354
• Density	65/km (170/sq mi)
Time zone	UTC+2 (EET)
• Summer (DST)	UTC+3 (EEST)
Postal code	17x xx
Area code	0286
Licence plate	17
Website

Tenedos or Bozcaada (Template:Lang-tr, Template:Lang-el, Tenedhos) is a small island in the Aegean Sea, part of the Bozcaada district of Çanakkale province in Turkey. As of 2010, Tenedos has a population of about 2,354. The main industries are fishing and tourism. The island has been famous for its grapes, wines and red poppies for centuries.

Geography and Climate

Tenedos is roughly triangular in shape. Its area is 39 km (15 sq mi). It is surrounded by small islets, and is situated close to the entrance of Dardanelles. It is the only rural district (ilçe) of Turkey without any villages, and has only one major settlement, Bozcaada town center.

The north-south axis of the island is about 6.5 km long, while the east-west axis is about 11 km. The highest hill rises 192 m, and is located in the northeast, overlooking the town. The southeastern part of the island is also hilly with rough terrain. These hilly parts are suitable for herding goats and sheep. The central part of the island is generally flat or covered with gently rolling slopes, suitable for agriculture, especially for viticulture. In addition to vineyards, there are wheat fields and olive trees -- either isolated or in small gruops. Further west, there is a pine forest. The very western part of the island has large sandy areas not suitable for agriculture.

The island has a mediterranean climate. Average temperature is 14°C and average annual precipitation is 529mm. There are a number of small streams running from north to south at the southwestern part of the island. Freshwater sources are not enough for the island so water is brought from mainland. However, the island's strong northern winds makes it one of the most suitable places for energy production at the Aegean region of Turkey, and it exports electricity to the mainland. (see Economy section)

History

Archeological findings indicate that the first human settlement on the island dates back to the Early Bronze Age II (ca. 3000-2700 BCE). The culture of that time is claimed to have common elements both with the cultures of northwestern Anatolia and the Cycladic Islands

Antiquity

Tenedos was already an established sanctuary of Apollo in the 8th century BC, as shown by the Homeric formula for the god: "Lord Supreme of Tenedos" (Iliad I).

According to Greek mythology, the name "Tenedos" is derived from the eponymous hero Tenes, who ruled the island at the time of the Trojan War and was killed by Achilles. In Virgil's Aeneid, Tenedos is described as the island in whose bay the Achaeans hid their fleet near the end of the Trojan War in order to trick the Trojans into believing the war was over and allowing the Trojans to take the Trojan Horse within their city walls. It is also the island from which twin serpents came to kill the Trojan priest Laocoon and his sons as punishment for throwing a spear at the Trojan Horse.

In ancient Greek history, there was an Aeolian settlement on Tenedos; it was conquered by the Persian Empire, and became independent again in the time of Alexander the Great. Later, there was a naval battle between C. Valerius Triarius and Mithridates' fleet off the island. In Pausanias' time, Tenedos was subject to Alexandria Troas.

Athenaeus remarks on the beauty of the women of Tenedos, and on its marjoram; the Greek poet Pindar wrote an ode in honour of Theoxenus of Tenedos in the mid 5th century BC.

Late Middle Ages

During the civil war between the Byzantine Emperors John V Palaeologus and his father-in-law John Cantacuzene, or John VI, John V took refuge on Tenedos during the winter of 1352-3, when Cantacuzene held most of the rest of the Empire, or what was left of it. John V won the war in 1354, and spent most of the rest of his long reign begging from the West.

In 1362, the Venetians offered to pay the Emperor's debts and lead an alliance against the Turks in exchange for Tenedos, but John V refused to cede the island which had been loyal to him. In 1370, however, he travelled to Italy to appeal to the Pope and Amadeus VI, Count of Savoy; he found himself broke in Venice, and agreed to cede Tenedos this time, in exchange for his debts, more money, and the Byzantine crown jewels, which had already been pledged; but his eldest son, Andronicus, regent in Constantinople during his absence, refused to give up the island. His second son, Manuel, paid off his creditors next year.

In 1376, this time from Constantinople, John V sold Tenedos to the Venetians again; in the meantime Andronicus had rebelled against his father and been defeated, imprisoned, and blinded in one eye. The Genoese freed Andronicus, and he deposed his father this time, becoming Andronicus IV; he then sold Tenedos to the Genoese. The garrison of Tenedos refused to go along with this, and sold Tenedos to the Venetians. This provoked the War of Chioggia between John V and Venetians, on one side, and Andronicus and the Genoese on the other.

The war ended in a draw, in 1381; John was to be Emperor, and Andronicus his heir. Pope Urban VI mediated between the two cities, and decided that Tenedos would belong to neither, but be laid waste. According to the Treaty of Turin, Venetians would destroy all the island's "castles, walls, defences, houses and habitations from top to bottom 'in such fashion that the place can never be rebuilt or reinhabited". 4000 Greek islanders from Tenedos were resettled in Crete and Euboea. The Spanish traveller Clavijo visited the island in 1401, and wrote that it was deserted, but he found many vineyards, fruit trees, rabbits and the ruins of a great castle. Another Spanish traveller, Pero Tafur, visited the island in 1437 and found it deserted, with many rabbits, the vineyards covering the island still uncultivated, but the port well-maintained. He mentions frequent Turkish attacks on shipping in the harbor, now that the Castle no longer existed.

Ottoman rule

Bozcaada became the first island owned by Turks in the Agean sea when Ottomans landed there in 1455. In the middle of 15th century, during the reign of Mehmet II, the Ottoman navy used the island as a supply base. The Venetians, realizing the strategic importance of island, deployed forces on it. In 1464, Ottoman Admiral Mahmud Pasha recaptured the island. During the Ottoman regime, the island was repopulated (by granting a tax exemption) and reengaged with its traditional economic activities. Ottoman traveller Evliya Çelebi wrote in the 16th century that the finest wines in the world were being produced in Bozcaada. Ottomans rebuilt the castle as well. Bozcaada, the name of the island in Turkish, is attested from the 16th century map of Piri Reis.

The Venetians were able to control the island for a brief period once more. After the Battle of the Dardanelles in 1657, the Ottoman Empire took it back. Following the victory, Grand Vizier Köprülü Mehmet Paşa visited the island and oversaw its repairs, during which he funded construction of a newer mosque. The Grand Vizier's personal attention was a sign of Ottomans' consideration of strategic importance of the island.

In the 19th century Russians repeatedly captured Tenedos during the Russo-Turkish Wars and they used it as their military base to achieve the victories at the Dardanelles and Athos; but they could not hold it. However, the Russian occupations proved to be destructive for the island. The town was burnt down, the harbor was almost filled in and almost all buildings were destroyed. The islanders left and Tenedos became deserted once more since the Venetians' forced evacuation. While it was repopulated after Russians left, many Turks left the island permanently.

The Ottomans adopted the Byzantine practice of using islands as places for the internal exile of state prisoners, such as Constantine Mourousis and Halil Hamid Pasha.

In 1822, during the Greek War of Independence, the revolutionaries under Konstantinos Kanaris managed to attack and burn the Ottoman flagship off Tenedos. This event was a major moral booster for the Greek Revolution and attracted the attention of the European Powers. The island was reported to be covered with threes in the past, which were destroyed during the Greek Revolution.

During the 19th century, the wine production remaind a profitable business while the island's annual wheat production was only enough for three months of the islanders' consumption. Also in 19th century there had been attempts to introduce pear, fig and mulberry trees. Current fig and mulberry trees may be due to those attempts.However, there are reports of fruit, especially fig trees being present on the island prior to those attempts. This may be due to some trees being damaged during the Greek Revolution.

19th century Ottoman admiral Bozcaadalı Piyale Hüseyin Paşa and his son, Naval Minister Bozcaadalı Hasan Hüsnü Pasha, who founded the Istanbul Naval Museum were from the island.

Between Turkey and Greece

Because of their strategic position near the Dardanelles, the western powers, particularly Britain, insisted at the end of the Balkan Wars in 1913 that the Ottoman Empire retain the islands of Tenedos and Imbros although the Empire would cede the other Aegean islands to Greece.

During the WWI Gallipoli Campaign, the British used the island as a supply base. They have also built a 600m. long airstrip for military operations.

In 1920, following the WWI, the Treaty of Sèvres with the defeated Ottoman Empire granted the island to Greece, who joined the war in Allies' side in May 1917. The new Turkish Government of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, based in Ankara, which was not party to the treaty, overthrew the Ottoman government, which signed but did not ratify the treaty. After the Turkish War of Independence ended in Greek defeat in Anatolia, and the fall of Lloyd George and his Middle Eastern policies, the western powers agreed to the Treaty of Lausanne with the new Turkish Republic, in 1923. This treaty made Tenedos and Imbros part of Turkey, and it guaranteed a special autonomous administrative status there to accommodate the Greeks. The treaty excluded the Greeks on the two islands from the population exchange that took place between Greece and Turkey, as they constituted a majority of the population there.

The treaty also provided for the rights of Greeks remaining in Turkey, and declared such rights fundamental laws unalterable by Turkish law or administrative decree, an international matter, to be amended only with the consent of a majority of the Council of the League of Nations. However shortly after the Civil Law legislation of 17 February 1926 (Medeni Kanun), the rights accorded to minorities in Turkey were revoked, in violation of the Lausanne Treaty.

Population

The first human remains on the island are dated back to Early Bronze Age II (ca. 3000-2700 BCE). As a result of the War of Chioggia, between Venetians and the Genoese, the island declared a neutral zone and the population was evacuated. The island was depopulated at the beginning 15th century before the arrival of Ottomans. After that, the island was populated again with both Greeks and Turks. At the end of the 19th century, approximately two thirds of the island's population was Greek and one third was Turkish. Many Greeks have emigrated due to a campaign of state-sponsored discrimination during the mid-twentieth century.

The Russian occupation in 1807 was destructive for the island, the town was completely burnt and all the islanders left leaving Tenedos deserted once more since the Venetians' forced evacuation. While the island repopulated after Russians left, it is reported that many rich Turks living on the island left it permantently. British archeologist Thomas Newton who visited the island writes in 1865 that the population of Tenedos was estimated about 4,000, one-third of which consisted of Turks. According to him, the island had a Greek school about (then) 25 years old with 200 students.

According to the Turkish census of 1927, the island had a population of 1,631 inhabitants, the vast majority of whom were Greek. The Greek Orthodox Church had a strong presence on the island. From 1926 to the present day, the Greek Orthodox population of Imbros and Tenedos have been represented at the Holy Synod of the Ecumenical Patriarchate by a high-ranking Metropolitan (bishop)..

Article 14 of the Treaty of Lausanne (1923) exempted Imbros and Tenedos from the large-scale population exchange that took place between Greece and Turkey, and required Turkey to accommodate the local Greek majority and their rights. Specifically:

The islands of Imbros and Tenedos, remaining under Turkish sovereignty, shall enjoy a special administrative organisation composed of local elements and furnishing every guarantee for the native non-Moslem population in so far as concerns local administration and the protection of persons and property. The maintenance of order will be assured therein by a police force recruited from amongst the local population by the local administration above provided for and placed under its orders.

Subsequently, the islands were to be largely autonomous and self-governing, with their own police force. Turkish policy consistently undermined both the spirit and letter of this commitment: Schools were banned to teach in Greek as per law no 502 in 1964, and the local Greek population was marginalized in multiple ways. A Greek primary school started to function in 1950 with 170 students but closed down on 24 July 1964, leaving the Greek islanders with no means to provide education to their children in their native language. This was a reason for the migration of Greeks out of the island.

Large numbers of mainland Turks were settled on the two islands, and Greek property was expropriated by the Turkish government under the 1964 Law on the Land Expropriation (No.6830), which asserted security concerns. The adequacy of the compensation is disputed. Guarantees that were made to all the Greek inhabitants of Turkey in the Treaty of Lausanne were ignored, and the Turkish government implemented a policy of intimidation.

While the Cyprus dispute between Greece and Turkey escalated in the 1960s, the situation of the Greeks of the two islands continually deteriorated. These events have led to the Greeks emigrating from both islands. Durmuş writes until 1980 there was a "considerable number of" Greeks on the island. There remains only a very small Greek community on Tenedos today, comprising several dozen mostly elderly people. Most of the former Greeks of Imbros and Tenedos are in diaspora in Greece, the United States, and Australia.

A 2011 study identified three social grups of the island: Native islanders who lived there for centuries, property owner intellectual Istanubulites who moved to the island in 20th century and workers who come from mainland Anatolia, especially from Bayramiç town.

Economy

Traditional economic activities are fishing and wine production. 80% of the cultivated lands are covered with vineyards. Grape harvest festivities are held on 26–27 July. The reminder of arable land is covered by olive trees and wheat fields.

Most of the agriculture is done on the central plains and gentle hills of the island. Sheep and goats are grazed at hilly northeastern and southeastern part of the island which is not suitable for agriculture.

Tourism was an important activity since the 1970s but it developed rapidly from the 1990s onwards. Long and fine beaches and the historical town of the island attract Turkish and foreign tourists. Residents hire parts of their houses as pensions. There also are small hotels.

Red poppies of the island are used to produce small quantities of sharbat and jam.

In year 2000, a wind farm of 17 turbines was erected at the western cape. It produces 10.2 MW energy, much more than the need of island. Excess power is transferred to mainland Anatolia.

Notes

1. Babul, Elif (2004). "Belonging to Imbros: Citizenship and Sovereignty in the Turkish Republic" (PDF). European Studies Centre. Nationalism, Society and Culture: 4. {{cite journal}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
2. including the 17 islets of various sizes surrounding it
3. Statistical Institute
4. ":: Bozcaada Administration ::.. - Home". Bozcaada.gov.tr. Retrieved 6 January 2009.
5. "Bozcaada - Encyclopedia.com". Encyclopedia.com. Retrieved 6 January 2009.
6. ^ Okyar, Z.; Aktaç, N. (2006) Identification of butterfly fauna of Gökçeada and Bozcaada, Turkey Pakistan Journal of Biological Sciences
7. ^ Takaoğlu, Turan; Bamyacı, Onur (2007) Continuity and Change in Rural Land Use on Tenedos/Bozcaada in Takaoğlu (ed.) Ethnoarcheological Investigations in Rural Anatolia, Ege Yayınları. p.116-7 Cite error: The named reference "takaoglu" was defined multiple times with different content (see the help page).
8. weatherbase.com accessed on 1 September, 2011
10. İncecik, S.; Erdoğmuş, F. (1994) 'An investigation of the wind power potential on the western coast of Anatolia
11. ^ Sevinç, N.; Takaoğlu, T. The Early Bronze Age on Tenedos/Bozcaada
12. Vergil (19 BCE). The Aeneid (Book 2). {{cite book}}: Check date values in: |year= (help)CS1 maint: year (link)
13. Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae 13, 609-10; 1, 28. LCL Vol VI, 285-7; I, 123. Marjoram is Prof. Gulick's version of origanon. Theoxenus, and the lyric of Pindar, are at 13, 601 (VI, 239-241)
14. The preceding part of this section is all from Warren Treadgold, A History of the Byzantine State and Society, Stanford, 1997, pp. 776-781
15. ^ "The Treaty of Turin therefore provided that the Venetians were to evacuate the island and surrender it to Amadeo. His agents would then supervise the total destruction of all its castles, walls, defences, houses and habitations from top to bottom 'in such fashion that the place can never be rebuilt or reinhabited' (...) Work on the demolition of the houses, the walls and finally the fortress of Tenedos began as soon as the inhabitants had left. The Venetians were as good as their word. They left Tenedos deserted and unfortified." Nicol, Donald M. (1992) Byzantium and Venice: a study in diplomatic and cultural relations Cambridge University Press. ISBN 0521428947, 9780521428941
16. For the islanders, see here
17. ^ Journey of Ruy Gonzalez de Clavijo
18. ^ "History of the Byzantine empire: text - IntraText CT". Intratext.com. Retrieved 6 January 2009.
19. Takaoğlu, 2007. p. 123
20. Madd River Designs. "Tenedos - Bozcaada - Grape & Wine". Tenedos-ege.com. Retrieved 6 January 2009.
21. Durmuş, p.37
22. ^ McArthur, John; Clarke, James Stanier. The Naval Chronicle: Volume 28, July-December 1812: Containing a General and Biographical History of the Royal Navy of the United Kingdom with a Variety of Original Papers on Nautical Subjects Cambridge University Press, 2010. p. 21. ISBN 110801867X, 9781108018678
23. ^ Newton, Charles Thomas (1865) Travels and Discoveries in the Levant Cambridge University Press, 2010. p.273-4. ISBN 1108017428, 9781108017428
24. ^ Bağış, Ali İhsan (1984) Britain and the struggle for the integrity of the Ottoman Empire: Sir Robert Ainslie's embassy to Istanbul, 1776-1794 Isis. p.26.
25. Günther, Dionysios Solomos. Übers. und kommentiert von Hans-Christian (2000). Werke. Stuttgart: Steiner. pp. 272–273. ISBN 9783515072496.
26. Biographisches Lexikon. Munich: Südosteuropäische Arbeiten, Institut zur Erforschung des Deutschen Volkstums im Süden und Südosten in (Vol. 75). Oldenbourg Verlag. 1976. p. 333.
27. Durmuş, p.17
28. ,
29. Treaty of Lausanne §37, 44; For the revocation, see Struggle for Justice.
30. ^ According to the population census of 1893, the total population of the island was 3,825, of these 2,479 being Greek orthodox and 1,247 being muslim with 109 of other ethnicities. Yurt Ansiklopedisi Anadolu Yayıncılık (1982) v.3, p 1839
31. ^ Alexis Alexandris, "The Identity Issue of The Minorities In Greece and Turkey", in Hirschon, Renée (ed.), Crossing the Aegean: An Appraisal of the 1923 Compulsory Population Exchange Between Greece and Turkey, Berghahn Books, 2003, p. 120
32. Mohammadi, A., Ehteshami, A. "Iran and Eurasia" Garnet&Ithaca Press, 2000, 221 pages. p. 192
33. Chronology of Catholic Dioceses:Greece Accessed on 31 August 2011
34. ^ Early Ottoman census counted males only.
35. Females included.
36. ^ Alexandris, Alexis (1980) Imbros and Tenedos:: A Study of Turkish Attitudes Toward Two Ethnic Greek Island Communities Since 1923 Pella Publishing
37. Çağatay, Soner (2006) Islam, secularism, and nationalism in modern Turkey: who is a Turk? in Volume 4 of Routledge studies in Middle Eastern history Taylor & Francis. p.30 ISBN 0415384583, 9780415384582
38. ^ Turkish Statistical Institute census results.Yurt Ansiklopedisi, vol.3, p.1882
39. ^ Durmuş, Hüseyin Bozcaada' nın sosyo-ekonomik yapısı ve kültürü p.92 Cite error: The named reference "durmus" was defined multiple times with different content (see the help page).
40. Durmuş writes he took this figure from Orhunlu, Cengiz (1996) Bozcaada'da Türk eserleri ve kitabeleri Türk Kültürü, issue 83. Türk Kültürünü Araştırma Enstitüsü Yayınları, Ankara
41. This figure is not the official census result but given by Durmuş according to the accont of a local Greek.
42. ^ Akpınar, F., Saygın, N., Karakaya, E. (2011) Evaluation of the conservation activities in the historical settlement Tenedos-Bozcaada Island in Brebbia, C. A.; Beriatos, E. (eds.)Sustainable Development and Planning V, WIT Press
43. Sampled 5% of the census population of Bozcaada.
44. ^ Kabasakal Arat, Zehra F. Human rights in Turkey p.65. University of Pennsylvania Press, 2007. ISBN 0812240006, 9780812240009
45. Durmuş, 93-94
46. Durmuş, p.93-94
47. Struggle for Justice, passim.
48. Takaoğlu, 2007, p. 116
49. Takaoğlu, 2007, p. 117

See also

• Treaty of Lausanne
• Greco-Turkish relations
• Treaty of Sèvres
• Imbros
• List of Greek countries and regions

References

• Oxford Classical Dictionary s. "Tenedos"
• Loeb Classical Library Athenaeus.
• The struggle for justice : 1923-1993 : 70 years of Turkish provocation and violations of the Treaty of Lausanne : a chronicle of human rights violations; Citizen’s Association of Constantinople-Imvros-Tenedos-Eastern Thrace of Thrace. Komotini (1993)
• Website on the misfortunes of the Greeks. While tendentious, the section (in the middle of the page) about the islands is not strident, and asserts several matters of fact.
• Text of the Treaty of Lausanne.
• Les îles d'Imbros et de Tenedos Template:Fr icon Source for population.
• Homer - The Iliad - Book XIII - Reference is made to a cavern located between the rocky isles of Imbros and Tenedos supposedly the home of the God Poseidon
• Travels of Spanish Ambassador Clavijo
• The Crusades from the Perspective of Byzantium and the Muslim World by Angeliki E. Laiou and Roy Parviz Mottahedeh.
• Account of Spanish traveller Pero Tafur in 1437
• Norwegian source on the island being abandoned in 15th century.
• Bozcaada map by Piri Reis. It has to be flipped for correct orientation.
• Account of Ottoman traveller Evliya Çelebi about the wines of Bozcaada
• Bores windfarm

External links

• Bozcaada government site
• Island Guide
• Local History Research Center
• Government web site about the island
• Official Website of the Island
• Template:Wikitravel

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