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{{main|Charvet Place Vendôme}} | {{main|Charvet Place Vendôme}} | ||
''']''' is a French high-end ] and ] shirtmaker from Paris, France, with a flagship store located at 28 ] in Paris. | ''']''' is a French high-end ] and ] shirtmaker from Paris, France, with a flagship store located at 28 ] in Paris. Founded in 1838, the company is probably the oldest remaining shirtmaker. Its history is exceptionally intertwinned with the history of fashion. The company itself does not communicate on its customers.<ref name="tied">{{cite news|url=http://www.dailymail.co.uk/moslive/article-428426/All-tied-up.html|title=All tied up|date=January 12, 2007|work=Daily Mail|accessdate=2008-10-19}}</ref> Nevertheless, names found in public sources help piece this contribution. | ||
The company itself does not communicate on its customers,<ref name="tied">{{cite news|url=http://www.dailymail.co.uk/moslive/article-428426/All-tied-up.html|title=All tied up|date=January 12, 2007|work=Daily Mail|accessdate=2008-10-19}}</ref> but names can be found in public sources: | |||
==19th Century== | |||
{{colbegin|colwidth=18em}} | |||
Until the end of the 19th century, aside from its specialization in ], the company has attracted the patronage of | |||
* ]<ref>Acton, Harold (1948). ''Memoirs of an Aesthete'', p. 155. Methuen</ref> | |||
* artists gravitating around the ], then closely related to the ]: | |||
* ]<ref> {{cite web |url= http://www.x17video.com/celebrity_video/paul_anka/|title= Paul Anka and his family in Paris| accessdate= 2008-11-15}}</ref> | |||
** ],<ref name="Hanover"> {{cite news |url=http://madame.lefigaro.fr/mode/en-kiosque/649-charvet-une-chemise-qui-se-hausse-du-col |title= Charvet, une chemise qui se hausse du col | last= Hanover| first= Jérôme | work= ]| date= Aug. 6, 2007 | language= French | accesdate= 2008-11-15}}</ref> | |||
* ] <ref>Lumet Buckley, Gail (1986). ''The Hornes: An American Family'', p. 186. Knopf. ISBN 0394513061</ref> | |||
** ],<ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9F03E3DD163EF931A1575BC0A9629C8B63|title=Noticed; The Message of the Bottle |last=Hamilton|first=William L.|date=August 22, 2004|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
*** ];<ref name ="Vergani"/> | |||
* ] <ref>Drake, Alicia (2001). ''A Shopper's Guide to Paris Fashion'', p.30. Interlink Pub. Group. ISBN 156656378X,</ref> | |||
* artists with a strong interest in visual arts: | |||
* ] <ref>Beaton, Cecil Walter Hardy Beaton (1946). ''Time Exposure'', p.8. Scribner's</ref> | |||
** ],<ref>Drake, Alicia (2001). ''A Shopper's Guide to Paris Fashion'', p.30. Interlink Pub. Group. ISBN 156656378X,</ref> | |||
* ]<ref name="Hanover"> {{cite news |url=http://madame.lefigaro.fr/mode/en-kiosque/649-charvet-une-chemise-qui-se-hausse-du-col |title= Charvet, une chemise qui se hausse du col | last= Hanover| first= Jérôme | work= ]| date= Aug. 6, 2007 | language= French | accesdate= 2008-11-15}}</ref> | |||
** ], <ref name ="Vergani">{{cite book |last = Vergani| first = Guido |date= 1999| title= Dizionario della moda| page= p.152| publisher= Baldini & Castoldi, Milano| language=Italian|isbn= 8880895850}}</ref> | |||
* ] <ref>Page, Norman (1998). ''Auden And Isherwood: The Berlin Years'', p. 6. St. Martin's press. ISBN 0312227124</ref> | |||
* ]<ref> |
** ];<ref>Nowell, Iris (2004). ''Generation Deluxe: Consumerism and Philanthropy of the New Super-rich'', p.137. Dundurn Press Ltd. ISBN 1550025031</ref>; | ||
* other artists or intellectuals, introduced to the shirtmaker by artist friends: | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/1561396/Mark-Birley.html|title=Mark Birley|date=August 27, 2007|work=The Telegraph|accessdate=2008-10-13}}</ref> | |||
** ], <ref name ="Gavenas"/> | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|url=http://blogs.chicagotribune.com/news_columnists_ezorn/2007/05/index.html|last=Zorn|first=Eric|title=Gov. Nocommentevich|date=May31, 2007|work=Chicago Tribune|accessdate=2008-10-19}}</ref> | |||
** ],<ref>{{cite news|title=Brady's Bunch; U.S. through French eyes.|last=Brady |first=James|date=April 18, 2005|work=Advertising Age}}</ref> | |||
* ] <ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
** ];<ref name ="Vergani"/> | |||
* ] <ref>Breslin, Jimmy (1991). ''Damon Runyon: A Life'', p.347. Ticknor & Fields. ISBN 0899199844</ref> | |||
* ] <ref name ="Chaille">Chaille, François ((1994). "The book of ties", p.119. Flammarion, Paris. ISBN 2080135686</ref> | |||
==Early 20th century== | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite book |last=Probst |first= Jean-François |date=2007|title=Chirac, mon ami de trente ans|page= ch. 6|language=French|publisher=Denoel, Paris| isbn = 2207258246}}</ref> | |||
*During the ], customers were | |||
* ] <ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
** royal patrons such as ];<ref>Warrant of Proveedor de la Real Casa granted in 1913</ref> | |||
* ] <ref>{{cite news|title='I'm typically male in my approach to clothes. I don't like waste. I like uniform; What's in the wardrobe of one of the UK's top fashion designers?|date=December 4, 2005|work=The Mail on Sunday}}</ref> | |||
** proeminent politicians such as ];<ref>Morand, Paul (1931). ''1900 A.D.''. W. F. Payson</ref> | |||
* ] <ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
** ]s such as ];<ref>Jones Arbitman, Kahren & al. (1988). ''Clayton, the Pittsburgh Home of Henry Clay Frick: Art and Furnishings'' , p.61. Helen Clay Frick Foundation. ISBN 082296905X</ref> | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|url=http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/09/24/travel/tmagazine/24coppola.html?ref=tmagazine&pagewanted=all|title=Sofia Coppola’s Paris|last=Hirschberg|first=Lynn|date=September 24, 2006|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-08}}</ref> | |||
** some of the new leaders of the Paris elegant society: | |||
* ] <ref>Marchant, William (1975). ''The Privilege of His Company: Noël Coward Remembered'', p. 258. Bobbs-Merrill. ISBN 0672519739</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref name ="Munhall">Munhall, Edgar (1995). ''Whistler and Montesquiou: The Butterfly and the Bat'', p.145. Frick Collection</ref> | |||
* ] <ref name ="Flusser">{{cite news|title=The Shirt Maker|last=Flusser|first=Alan|date=October 1982|work=TWA Ambassador}}</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref> {{cite news|url=http://www.nysun.com/on-the-town/king-of-the-dudes/15834/|title=King of the Dudes|last=Bryk|first=William|date=June 22, 2005|work=]|accessdate=2008-11-11}}</ref> | |||
* ] <ref>Symonds, John (1989). ''The King of the Shadow Realm: Aleister Crowley, His Life and Magic'', p. 362. Duckworth. ISBN 0715622838</ref> | |||
*** ];<ref>Spencer, Charles & al. (1974). ''The World of Serge Diaghilev'', p.21. Regnery, Washington. ISBN 0809283050</ref> | |||
* ] <ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
** Writers: | |||
* ]<ref name ="Gavenas">Gavenas, Mary Lisa (2008). ''Encyclopedia of Menswear'', p.86. Fairchild Publications, New York. ISBN 9781563674655</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
* ]<ref>Morand, Paul (1931). ''1900 A.D.''. W. F. Payson</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
* ]<ref>Spencer, Charles & al. (1974). ''The World of Serge Diaghilev'', p.21. Regnery, Washington. ISBN 0809283050</ref> | |||
* ] |
*** ];<ref>{{cite book |last=Bulteau| first= Michel| title= Paul Morand| publisher= Editions du Rocher| date= 1988| isbn= 2268006557| language= French| page= 32}}</ref> | ||
** the ] <ref name ="Patner">{{cite news|url=http://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/12/style/tmagazine/t_m_1151_talk_patnerrev_.html?_r=1&oref=slogin|title=What's my line|last=Patner|first=Josh|date=June 4, 2005|work=Los Angeles Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> was placing huge orders; | |||
* ]<ref>Gayford, Martin (2000). "The Grove Book of Art Writing", p.169 . Grove Press. ISBN 0802137202 </ref> | |||
** in London, thanks to the longstanding ] granted by ], | |||
* ]<ref>Jones Arbitman, Kahren & al. (1988). ''Clayton, the Pittsburgh Home of Henry Clay Frick: Art and Furnishings'' , p.61. Helen Clay Frick Foundation. ISBN 082296905X</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref>Hall, Desmond (1965). ''I Give You Oscar Wilde: A Biographical Novel'', p. 335. A. Barker</ref> | |||
* ] <ref>{{cite book|last=Perez|first=Sylvie|date=2006|title=Un couple infernal: l'écrivain et son éditeur|page= p.37|language=French|publisher=Bartillat|isbn= 2841003744}}</ref> | |||
*** ].<ref>Symonds, John (1989). ''The King of the Shadow Realm: Aleister Crowley, His Life and Magic'', p. 362. Duckworth. ISBN 0715622838</ref> | |||
* ] <ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.lepoint.fr/actualites-region/jean-claude-gaudin/1556/0/124709|title=Mon Marseille à moi - Jean-Claude Gaudin|last=Giesbert| first=Franz-Olivier|language=French|date=March 15, 2007|work=Le Point|accessdate=2008-10-25}}</ref> | |||
* ] <ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
*During the ], | |||
* ]<ref name="Hanover"/> | |||
** notable French customers were | |||
* ] <ref name="Morahan">{{cite news|url=http://archives.tcm.ie/irishexaminer/2001/10/13/story14843.asp|title=Haughey's former secretary reveals shopping habit|last=Morahan|first=Jim|date=October 13, 2001|work=Irish Examiner|accessdate=2008-10-08}}</ref> | |||
*** publisher ],<ref>{{cite book|last=Perez|first=Sylvie|date=2006|title=Un couple infernal: l'écrivain et son éditeur|page= p.37|language=French|publisher=Bartillat|isbn= 2841003744}}</ref> | |||
* ] <ref>{{cite news|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9D0DE3DF133BF936A15752C0A96E958260|title=The President under Fire: The Power Broker; Jordan Trades Stories With Clinton, and Offers Counsel |last=Apple|first=R.W.|Date=January 25, 1998|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
*** fashion designer ], <ref name ="Chaille">Chaille, François ((1994). "The book of ties", p.119. Flammarion, Paris. ISBN 2080135686</ref> | |||
* ] <ref>{{cite news|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9A07EEDC1638F936A25755C0A9659C8B63&scp=1&sq=Beware%20The%20Gift%20That%20Bites%20Back&st=cse|title=Beware The Gift That Bites Back|last=Goldman|first=Andrew|date=June 5, 2003|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-04}}</ref> | |||
* ]<ref name =" |
*** poet ],<ref name ="Chaille"/> | ||
*** actor ].<ref name="Hanover"/> | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|title=Getting Shirty|last=Foulkes|first=Nicholas|date=February 16, 2003|work=The Mail on Sunday}}</ref> | |||
** The shirtmaker became very popular in the British ], reaching | |||
* ]<ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
*** ],<ref>Acton, Harold (1948). ''Memoirs of an Aesthete'', p. 155. Methuen</ref> | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.nytimes.com/indexes/2008/09/07/style/t/index.html#pageName=07levy|title=Brains of the outfit|last=Weber|first=Caroline|date=September 2008|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-04}}</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref>Marchant, William (1975). ''The Privilege of His Company: Noël Coward Remembered'', p. 258. Bobbs-Merrill. ISBN 0672519739</ref> | |||
* ] <ref>{{cite web |url= http://shoes.about.com/od/designersmanufacturers/qt/c_louboutin.htm|title= Christian Louboutin Fast Facts|last=Stimpert|first=Désirée|accessdate=2008-10-09}}</ref> | |||
* ] <ref> |
*** ]. <ref>Pryce-Jones, David (1973). ''Evelyn Waugh and His World''p.35. Weidenfeld and Nicolson. ISBN 0297765701</ref> | ||
** The popularity of Charvet was also growing in the United States, following precursors such as ], <ref>Jackson Lears, T.J. (1994). ''No Place of Grace: Antimodernism and the Transformation of American Culture, 1880-1920'' p. 226. University of Chicago Press. ISBN 0226469700</ref> it reached | |||
* ] <ref>Nowell, Iris (2004). ''Generation Deluxe: Consumerism and Philanthropy of the New Super-rich'', p.137. Dundurn Press Ltd. ISBN 1550025031</ref> | |||
*** in the movie industry: | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite book |last=Aragon | first= Louis | title= Henri Matisse, roman| language= French |publisher= Gallimard |page= p. 27}}</ref> | |||
**** ],<ref>Lumet Buckley, Gail (1986). ''The Hornes: An American Family'', p. 186. Knopf. ISBN 0394513061</ref> | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.tajan.com/pdf/8850.pdf|format=PDF|title= Vente Mitterand |language=French|accessdate=2008-10-03 }}</ref> | |||
****], <ref name ="Flusser">{{cite news|title=The Shirt Maker|last=Flusser|first=Alan|date=October 1982|work=TWA Ambassador}}</ref> | |||
* ]<ref name ="Munhall">Munhall, Edgar (1995). ''Whistler and Montesquiou: The Butterfly and the Bat'', p.145. Frick Collection</ref> | |||
**** ],<ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite book |last=Bulteau| first= Michel| title= Paul Morand| publisher= Editions du Rocher| date= 1988| isbn= 2268006557| language= French| page= 32}}</ref> | |||
**** ];<ref>Wilder, Billy (2001). ''Billy Wilder: Interviews'', p. 24. University Press of Mississippi. ISBN 1578064449</ref> | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|url=http://patrimoine.jalougallery.com/lofficiel-hommes-numero_15-1979-detail-22-975.html|title=Enquête sur des agendas au dessus de tout soupçon|date=1979|work=L'Officiel Homme|language=French|accessdate=2008-11-03}}</ref> | |||
*** and in the mob: | |||
* ]<ref> {{cite book |last=Noiret| first= Philippe| title= Mémoires cavalières| page=7| publisher= Laffont| date=2007| isbn=2221107934| language= French}}</ref> | |||
**** ],<ref>Breslin, Jimmy (1991). ''Damon Runyon: A Life'', p.347. Ticknor & Fields. ISBN 0899199844</ref> | |||
* ]<ref name ="Vergani"/> | |||
**** ].<ref> Gosch, Martin A (1975). ''The last testament of Lucky Luciano'', p.74. Macmillan. ISBN 0333177509</ref>. | |||
* ] <ref name ="Patner">{{cite news|url=http://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/12/style/tmagazine/t_m_1151_talk_patnerrev_.html?_r=1&oref=slogin|title=What's my line|last=Patner|first=Josh|date=June 4, 2005|work=Los Angeles Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/28ed738a-faa5-11db-8bd0-000b5df10621.html|title=Francois-Henri Pinault - Man of affluence|last=Friedman |first=Vanessa|date=May 5 2007|work=Financial Times|accessdate=2008-10-09}}</ref> | |||
==Recent history== | |||
* ]<ref name ="Flusser"/> | |||
*After the ], the shirtmaker remained | |||
* ] <ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
** servicing French heads of state: | |||
* ] <ref name ="Gavenas"/> | |||
*** ],<ref name ="Chaille"/> | |||
* ]<ref name ="Gavenas2">{{cite news|url=http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_hb4298/is_200702/ai_n18990445|title= On the Right Bank; at the Storied House of Charvet, Luxury comes in Superabundance.|last=Gavenas|first=Marilise |date= February 12, 2007|work=DNR|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref name ="Flusser"/> | |||
* ]<ref name ="Soltes">{{cite news|url=http://www.portfolio.com/culture-lifestyle/goods/style/2007/03/23/Get-Shirty|title=Get shirty|last=Soltes|first=Eileen|date=April 2007|work=Portfolio|accessdate=2008-10-01}}</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.tajan.com/pdf/8850.pdf|format=PDF|title= Vente Mitterand |language=French|accessdate=2008-10-03 }}</ref> | |||
* ]<ref name ="Gavenas"/> | |||
*** ],<ref>{{cite book |last=Probst |first= Jean-François |date=2007|title=Chirac, mon ami de trente ans|page= ch. 6|language=French|publisher=Denoel, Paris| isbn = 2207258246}}</ref> | |||
* ]<ref name ="Soltes"/> | |||
** and proeminent French politicians: | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|url=http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/the_way_we_live/article1803225.ece|title=A life in the day: David Tang|last=Fox |first=Sue|date=May 20, 2007|work=The Sunday Times|accessdate=2008-10-09}}</ref> | |||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|title= |
*** ],<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.lepoint.fr/actualites-region/jean-claude-gaudin/1556/0/124709|title=Mon Marseille à moi - Jean-Claude Gaudin|last=Giesbert| first=Franz-Olivier|language=French|date=March 15, 2007|work=Le Point|accessdate=2008-10-25}}</ref> | ||
*** ].<ref>{{cite news|title=Getting Shirty|last=Foulkes|first=Nicholas|date=February 16, 2003|work=The Mail on Sunday}}</ref> | |||
* ] <ref>{{cite news|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9507E5DC1139F930A35754C0A9679C8B63&sec=&spon=&&scp=1&sq=Review/Fashion;%20In%20Milan,%20Too%20Few%20Muscles%20Instead%20of%20Too%20Many%20&st=cse|title=Review/Fashion; In Milan, Too Few Muscles Instead of Too Many |last=Bellafante |first=Ginia|date=July 3, 2001|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
* Likewise in the United States, | |||
* ]<ref> {{cite news|url=http://www.nysun.com/on-the-town/king-of-the-dudes/15834/|title=King of the Dudes|last=Bryk|first=William|date=June 22, 2005|work=]|accessdate=2008-11-11}}</ref> | |||
** Presidents: | |||
* ] <ref>Pryce-Jones, David (1973). ''Evelyn Waugh and His World''p.35. Weidenfeld and Nicolson. ISBN 0297765701</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref name ="Vergani"/> | |||
* ] <ref>Welles, Benjamin (1997). ''Sumner Welles: Fdr's Global Strategist : A Biography''. St Martin's Press, New York. ISBN 0312174403</ref> | |||
*** ];<ref name ="Gavenas"/> | |||
* ] <ref>{{cite news|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9B06E0DF1E3FF934A1575AC0A96F958260|title=Striking Back at the Empire; Wenner Media Takes on the Mighty Time Inc. In Transforming Us to a Monthly Magazine |last=Kuczynski|first=Alex|date=September 27, 1999|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
** as well as | |||
* ] <ref>Hall, Desmond (1965). ''I Give You Oscar Wilde: A Biographical Novel'', p. 335. A. Barker</ref> | |||
* ] |
*** ],<ref>Welles, Benjamin (1997). ''Sumner Welles: Fdr's Global Strategist : A Biography''. St Martin's Press, New York. ISBN 0312174403</ref> | ||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|url=http:// |
*** ], <ref>{{cite news|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9D0DE3DF133BF936A15752C0A96E958260|title=The President under Fire: The Power Broker; Jordan Trades Stories With Clinton, and Offers Counsel |last=Apple|first=R.W.|Date=January 25, 1998|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | ||
* ] |
*** ],<ref>{{cite news|url=http://blogs.chicagotribune.com/news_columnists_ezorn/2007/05/index.html|last=Zorn|first=Eric|title=Gov. Nocommentevich|date=May31, 2007|work=Chicago Tribune|accessdate=2008-10-19}}</ref> | ||
* ]<ref>{{cite news|url=http:// |
*** ].<ref>{{cite news|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9A07EEDC1638F936A25755C0A9659C8B63&scp=1&sq=Beware%20The%20Gift%20That%20Bites%20Back&st=cse|title=Beware The Gift That Bites Back|last=Goldman|first=Andrew|date=June 5, 2003|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-04}}</ref> | ||
* ]<ref name ="Vergani"/> | |||
* Some famous painters were also customers: | |||
{{colend}} | |||
** ],<ref>Gayford, Martin (2000). "The Grove Book of Art Writing", p.169 . Grove Press. ISBN 0802137202 </ref> | |||
** ].<ref>{{cite book |last=Aragon | first= Louis | title= Henri Matisse, roman| language= French |publisher= Gallimard |page= p. 27}}</ref> | |||
* Today, the company attracts | |||
** affluent businessmen: | |||
*** ],<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/28ed738a-faa5-11db-8bd0-000b5df10621.html|title=Francois-Henri Pinault - Man of affluence|last=Friedman |first=Vanessa|date=May 5 2007|work=Financial Times|accessdate=2008-10-09}}</ref> | |||
*** ];<ref>{{cite news|url=http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/the_way_we_live/article1803225.ece|title=A life in the day: David Tang|last=Fox |first=Sue|date=May 20, 2007|work=The Sunday Times|accessdate=2008-10-09}}</ref> | |||
** actors: | |||
*** ],<ref name ="Gavenas">Gavenas, Mary Lisa (2008). ''Encyclopedia of Menswear'', p.86. Fairchild Publications, New York. ISBN 9781563674655</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref> {{cite book |last=Noiret| first= Philippe| title= Mémoires cavalières| page=7| publisher= Laffont| date=2007| isbn=2221107934| language= French}}</ref> | |||
*** ];<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.bild.de/BTO/leute/standards/koerzdoerfer/2007/06/18/koerzdoerfers-gesellschaft/willis-bruce-tod-interview.html|title=Ich umarme jeden Tag den Tod|last=Körzdörfer |first=Norbert|date=June 18, 2007|work=Bild|language= German|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
** singer ];<ref> {{cite web |url= http://www.x17video.com/celebrity_video/paul_anka/|title= Paul Anka and his family in Paris| accessdate= 2008-11-15}}</ref> | |||
** Fashion designers: | |||
*** ],<ref name ="Soltes">{{cite news|url=http://www.portfolio.com/culture-lifestyle/goods/style/2007/03/23/Get-Shirty|title=Get shirty|last=Soltes|first=Eileen|date=April 2007|work=Portfolio|accessdate=2008-10-01}}</ref>, | |||
*** ],<ref>{{cite news|url=http://patrimoine.jalougallery.com/lofficiel-hommes-numero_15-1979-detail-22-975.html|title=Enquête sur des agendas au dessus de tout soupçon|date=1979|work=L'Officiel Homme|language=French|accessdate=2008-11-03}}</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref name ="Gavenas2">{{cite news|url=http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_hb4298/is_200702/ai_n18990445|title= On the Right Bank; at the Storied House of Charvet, Luxury comes in Superabundance.|last=Gavenas|first=Marilise |date= February 12, 2007|work=DNR|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
*** ]; <ref>{{cite web |url= http://shoes.about.com/od/designersmanufacturers/qt/c_louboutin.htm|title= Christian Louboutin Fast Facts|last=Stimpert|first=Désirée|accessdate=2008-10-09}}</ref> | |||
** trend setters: | |||
*** ], <ref>{{cite news|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9507E5DC1139F930A35754C0A9679C8B63&sec=&spon=&&scp=1&sq=Review/Fashion;%20In%20Milan,%20Too%20Few%20Muscles%20Instead%20of%20Too%20Many%20&st=cse|title=Review/Fashion; In Milan, Too Few Muscles Instead of Too Many |last=Bellafante |first=Ginia|date=July 3, 2001|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref>{{cite news|title='I'm typically male in my approach to clothes. I don't like waste. I like uniform; What's in the wardrobe of one of the UK's top fashion designers?|date=December 4, 2005|work=The Mail on Sunday}}</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref name ="Soltes"/> | |||
*** ],<ref>{{cite news|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9F03E3DD163EF931A1575BC0A9629C8B63|title=Noticed; The Message of the Bottle |last=Hamilton|first=William L.|date=August 22, 2004|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
*** ],<ref>{{cite news|url=http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4158/is_/ai_n14326391|title=Checkout; The writer and style guru Peter York on Duchamp, 75 ledbury|last=Prain|first=Susan|date=July 3, 2000|work=The Independent|accessdate=2008-10-09}}</ref> | |||
*** ];<ref>{{cite news|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9B06E0DF1E3FF934A1575AC0A96F958260|title=Striking Back at the Empire; Wenner Media Takes on the Mighty Time Inc. In Transforming Us to a Monthly Magazine |last=Kuczynski|first=Alex|date=September 27, 1999|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
** film maker ];<ref>{{cite news|url=http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/09/24/travel/tmagazine/24coppola.html?ref=tmagazine&pagewanted=all|title=Sofia Coppola’s Paris|last=Hirschberg|first=Lynn|date=September 24, 2006|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-08}}</ref> | |||
** writers: | |||
*** ],<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.nytimes.com/2004/10/31/magazine/31WOLFE.html|title=Wolfe's World|last=McGrawth |first=Charles|date=October 31, 2004|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-21}}</ref> | |||
*** ].<ref>{{ cite news |url= http://www.lejdd.fr/cmc/paris/200843/le-paris-de-ken-follett_158181.html| title= Le Paris de Ken Follett| last= de Rosnay| first= Tatiana| language= French|date= Oct. 21, 2008| work= Le Journal du Dimanche| accessdate= 2008-11-16}}</ref> | |||
* Charvet has also been associated with customers in a controversial way: | |||
** Irish politician ],<ref name="Morahan">{{cite news|url=http://archives.tcm.ie/irishexaminer/2001/10/13/story14843.asp|title=Haughey's former secretary reveals shopping habit|last=Morahan|first=Jim|date=October 13, 2001|work=Irish Examiner|accessdate=2008-10-08}}</ref> | |||
** French philosopher ],<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.nytimes.com/indexes/2008/09/07/style/t/index.html#pageName=07levy|title=Brains of the outfit|last=Weber|first=Caroline|date=September 2008|work=New York Times|accessdate=2008-10-04}}</ref>, whose unbuttoned shirts are specially designed with "collars that withstand the unbuttoning and never disappear under his jacket".<ref>({{ cite news| url=http://www.inthesetimes.com/article/the_lies_of_bernard_henri_leacutevy/|last=Ireland|first=Doug|title=The lies of Bernard-Henry Lévy|work= In these times| date= March 3, 2006| accessdate= 2008-11-16}})</ref> | |||
==References== | ==References== |
Revision as of 01:08, 17 November 2008
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Charvet is a French high-end bespoke and ready-to-wear shirtmaker from Paris, France, with a flagship store located at 28 Place Vendôme in Paris. Founded in 1838, the company is probably the oldest remaining shirtmaker. Its history is exceptionally intertwinned with the history of fashion. The company itself does not communicate on its customers. Nevertheless, names found in public sources help piece this contribution.
19th Century
Until the end of the 19th century, aside from its specialization in "royal haberdashery", the company has attracted the patronage of
- artists gravitating around the Opéra-Comique, then closely related to the high society:
- artists with a strong interest in visual arts:
- other artists or intellectuals, introduced to the shirtmaker by artist friends:
Early 20th century
- During the Belle Époque, customers were
- royal patrons such as Alfonso XIII of Spain;
- proeminent politicians such as Paul Deschanel;
- business magnates such as Henry Clay Frick;
- some of the new leaders of the Paris elegant society:
- Writers:
- the Maharadjah of Patiala was placing huge orders;
- in London, thanks to the longstanding royal warrant granted by Edward VII,
- During the roaring twenties,
- notable French customers were
- publisher Gaston Gallimard,
- fashion designer Coco Chanel,
- poet Jean Cocteau,
- actor Sacha Guitry.
- The shirtmaker became very popular in the British intelligentsia, reaching
- The popularity of Charvet was also growing in the United States, following precursors such as William Sturgis Bigelow, it reached
- in the movie industry:
- and in the mob:
- notable French customers were
Recent history
- After the Second World War, the shirtmaker remained
- servicing French heads of state:
- and proeminent French politicians:
- Likewise in the United States,
- Presidents:
- as well as
- Some famous painters were also customers:
- Today, the company attracts
- affluent businessmen:
- actors:
- singer ];
- Fashion designers:
- trend setters:
- film maker Sofia Coppola;
- writers:
- Charvet has also been associated with customers in a controversial way:
- Irish politician Charles Haughey,
- French philosopher Bernard-Henri Lévy,, whose unbuttoned shirts are specially designed with "collars that withstand the unbuttoning and never disappear under his jacket".
References
- "All tied up". Daily Mail. January 12, 2007. Retrieved 2008-10-19.
- ^ Hanover, Jérôme (Aug. 6, 2007). "Charvet, une chemise qui se hausse du col". Le Figaro (in French).
{{cite news}}
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(help); Unknown parameter|accesdate=
ignored (|access-date=
suggested) (help) - ^ Chaille, François ((1994). "The book of ties", p.119. Flammarion, Paris. ISBN 2080135686
- ^ Vergani, Guido (1999). Dizionario della moda (in Italian). Baldini & Castoldi, Milano. p. p.152. ISBN 8880895850.
{{cite book}}
:|page=
has extra text (help) - Drake, Alicia (2001). A Shopper's Guide to Paris Fashion, p.30. Interlink Pub. Group. ISBN 156656378X,
- Nowell, Iris (2004). Generation Deluxe: Consumerism and Philanthropy of the New Super-rich, p.137. Dundurn Press Ltd. ISBN 1550025031
- ^ Gavenas, Mary Lisa (2008). Encyclopedia of Menswear, p.86. Fairchild Publications, New York. ISBN 9781563674655
- Brady, James (April 18, 2005). "Brady's Bunch; U.S. through French eyes". Advertising Age.
- Warrant of Proveedor de la Real Casa granted in 1913
- Morand, Paul (1931). 1900 A.D.. W. F. Payson
- Jones Arbitman, Kahren & al. (1988). Clayton, the Pittsburgh Home of Henry Clay Frick: Art and Furnishings , p.61. Helen Clay Frick Foundation. ISBN 082296905X
- Munhall, Edgar (1995). Whistler and Montesquiou: The Butterfly and the Bat, p.145. Frick Collection
- Bryk, William (June 22, 2005). "King of the Dudes". The New York Sun. Retrieved 2008-11-11.
- Spencer, Charles & al. (1974). The World of Serge Diaghilev, p.21. Regnery, Washington. ISBN 0809283050
- Bulteau, Michel (1988). Paul Morand (in French). Editions du Rocher. p. 32. ISBN 2268006557.
- Patner, Josh (June 4, 2005). "What's my line". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
- Hall, Desmond (1965). I Give You Oscar Wilde: A Biographical Novel, p. 335. A. Barker
- Symonds, John (1989). The King of the Shadow Realm: Aleister Crowley, His Life and Magic, p. 362. Duckworth. ISBN 0715622838
- Perez, Sylvie (2006). Un couple infernal: l'écrivain et son éditeur (in French). Bartillat. p. p.37. ISBN 2841003744.
{{cite book}}
:|page=
has extra text (help) - Acton, Harold (1948). Memoirs of an Aesthete, p. 155. Methuen
- Marchant, William (1975). The Privilege of His Company: Noël Coward Remembered, p. 258. Bobbs-Merrill. ISBN 0672519739
- Pryce-Jones, David (1973). Evelyn Waugh and His Worldp.35. Weidenfeld and Nicolson. ISBN 0297765701
- Jackson Lears, T.J. (1994). No Place of Grace: Antimodernism and the Transformation of American Culture, 1880-1920 p. 226. University of Chicago Press. ISBN 0226469700
- Lumet Buckley, Gail (1986). The Hornes: An American Family, p. 186. Knopf. ISBN 0394513061
- ^ Flusser, Alan (October 1982). "The Shirt Maker". TWA Ambassador.
- Wilder, Billy (2001). Billy Wilder: Interviews, p. 24. University Press of Mississippi. ISBN 1578064449
- Breslin, Jimmy (1991). Damon Runyon: A Life, p.347. Ticknor & Fields. ISBN 0899199844
- Gosch, Martin A (1975). The last testament of Lucky Luciano, p.74. Macmillan. ISBN 0333177509
- "Vente Mitterand" (PDF) (in French). Retrieved 2008-10-03.
- Probst, Jean-François (2007). Chirac, mon ami de trente ans (in French). Denoel, Paris. p. ch. 6. ISBN 2207258246.
- Giesbert, Franz-Olivier (March 15, 2007). "Mon Marseille à moi - Jean-Claude Gaudin". Le Point (in French). Retrieved 2008-10-25.
- Foulkes, Nicholas (February 16, 2003). "Getting Shirty". The Mail on Sunday.
- Welles, Benjamin (1997). Sumner Welles: Fdr's Global Strategist : A Biography. St Martin's Press, New York. ISBN 0312174403
- Apple, R.W. "The President under Fire: The Power Broker; Jordan Trades Stories With Clinton, and Offers Counsel". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
{{cite news}}
: Unknown parameter|Date=
ignored (|date=
suggested) (help) - Zorn, Eric (May31, 2007). "Gov. Nocommentevich". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2008-10-19.
{{cite news}}
: Check date values in:|date=
(help) - Goldman, Andrew (June 5, 2003). "Beware The Gift That Bites Back". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-04.
- Gayford, Martin (2000). "The Grove Book of Art Writing", p.169 . Grove Press. ISBN 0802137202
- Aragon, Louis. Henri Matisse, roman (in French). Gallimard. p. p. 27.
{{cite book}}
:|page=
has extra text (help) - Friedman, Vanessa (May 5 2007). "Francois-Henri Pinault - Man of affluence". Financial Times. Retrieved 2008-10-09.
{{cite news}}
: Check date values in:|date=
(help) - Fox, Sue (May 20, 2007). "A life in the day: David Tang". The Sunday Times. Retrieved 2008-10-09.
- Noiret, Philippe (2007). Mémoires cavalières (in French). Laffont. p. 7. ISBN 2221107934.
- Körzdörfer, Norbert (June 18, 2007). "Ich umarme jeden Tag den Tod". Bild (in German). Retrieved 2008-10-21.
- "Paul Anka and his family in Paris". Retrieved 2008-11-15.
- ^ Soltes, Eileen (April 2007). "Get shirty". Portfolio. Retrieved 2008-10-01.
- "Enquête sur des agendas au dessus de tout soupçon". L'Officiel Homme (in French). 1979. Retrieved 2008-11-03.
- Gavenas, Marilise (February 12, 2007). "On the Right Bank; at the Storied House of Charvet, Luxury comes in Superabundance". DNR. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
- Stimpert, Désirée. "Christian Louboutin Fast Facts". Retrieved 2008-10-09.
- Bellafante, Ginia (July 3, 2001). "Review/Fashion; In Milan, Too Few Muscles Instead of Too Many". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
- "'I'm typically male in my approach to clothes. I don't like waste. I like uniform; What's in the wardrobe of one of the UK's top fashion designers?". The Mail on Sunday. December 4, 2005.
- Hamilton, William L. (August 22, 2004). "Noticed; The Message of the Bottle". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
- Prain, Susan (July 3, 2000). "Checkout; The writer and style guru Peter York on Duchamp, 75 ledbury". The Independent. Retrieved 2008-10-09.
- Kuczynski, Alex (September 27, 1999). "Striking Back at the Empire; Wenner Media Takes on the Mighty Time Inc. In Transforming Us to a Monthly Magazine". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
- Hirschberg, Lynn (September 24, 2006). "Sofia Coppola's Paris". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-08.
- McGrawth, Charles (October 31, 2004). "Wolfe's World". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
- de Rosnay, Tatiana (Oct. 21, 2008). "Le Paris de Ken Follett". Le Journal du Dimanche (in French). Retrieved 2008-11-16.
{{cite news}}
: Check date values in:|date=
(help) - Morahan, Jim (October 13, 2001). "Haughey's former secretary reveals shopping habit". Irish Examiner. Retrieved 2008-10-08.
- Weber, Caroline (September 2008). "Brains of the outfit". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-04.
- (Ireland, Doug (March 3, 2006). "The lies of Bernard-Henry Lévy". In these times. Retrieved 2008-11-16.)