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Charvet is a French high-end bespoke and ready-to-wear shirtmaker from Paris, France, with a flagship store located at 28 Place Vendôme in Paris. Founded in 1838, the company is probably the oldest remaining shirtmaker. Its history is exceptionally intertwinned with the history of fashion. The company itself does not communicate on its customers. Nevertheless, names found in public sources help piece this contribution.

19th Century

Until the end of the 19th century, aside from its specialization in "royal haberdashery", the company has attracted the patronage of

• artists gravitating around the Opéra-Comique, then closely related to the high society:
  • Hector Berlioz,
  • Claude Debussy,
    • Jacques Offenbach;
• artists with a strong interest in visual arts:
  • Charles Baudelaire,
  • Gustave Eiffel,
  • Édouard Manet;;
• other artists or intellectuals, introduced to the shirtmaker by artist friends:
  • Georges Sand,
  • Alexis de Tocqueville,
  • Émile Zola;

Early 20th century

• During the Belle Époque, customers were
  • royal patrons such as Alfonso XIII of Spain;
  • proeminent politicians such as Paul Deschanel;
  • business magnates such as Henry Clay Frick;
  • some of the new leaders of the Paris elegant society:
    • Robert de Montesquiou,
    • Berry Wall,
    • Sergei Diaghilev;
  • Writers:
    • Marcel Proust,
    • Valery Larbaud,
    • Paul Morand;
  • the Maharadjah of Patiala was placing huge orders;
  • in London, thanks to the longstanding royal warrant granted by Edward VII,
    • Oscar Wilde,
    • Aleister Crowley.

• During the roaring twenties,
  • notable French customers were
    • publisher Gaston Gallimard,
    • fashion designer Coco Chanel,
    • poet Jean Cocteau,
    • actor Sacha Guitry.
  • The shirtmaker became very popular in the British intelligentsia, reaching
    • Harold Acton,
    • Noel Coward,
    • Evelyn Waugh.
  • The popularity of Charvet was also growing in the United States, following precursors such as William Sturgis Bigelow, it reached
    • in the movie industry:
      • Fred Astaire,
      • Bing Crosby,
      • Gary Cooper,
      • Billy Wilder;
    • and in the mob:
      • Al Capone,
      • Lucky Luciano..

Recent history

• After the Second World War, the shirtmaker remained
  • servicing French heads of state:
    • Charles de Gaulle,
    • Georges Pompidou,
    • François Mitterand,
    • Jacques Chirac,
  • and proeminent French politicians:
    • Jean-Claude Gaudin,
    • Jack Lang.
• Likewise in the United States,
  • Presidents:
    • John F. Kennedy,
    • Ronald Reagan;
  • as well as
    • Sumner Welles,
    • Vernon Jordan,
    • Rod Blagojevich,
    • Ray Kelly.

• Some famous painters were also customers:
  • Lucian Freud,
  • Henri Matisse.

• Today, the company attracts
  • affluent businessmen:
    • François Pinault,
    • David Tang;
  • actors:
    • Catherine Deneuve,
    • Philippe Noiret,
    • Bruce Willis;
  • singer ];
  • Fashion designers:
    • Yves Saint Laurent,,
    • Thierry Mugler,
    • Ralph Rucci,
    • Christian Louboutin;
  • trend setters:
    • Stefano Tonchi,
    • Jasper Conran,
    • André Leon Talley,
    • Fabien Baron,
    • Peter York,
    • Jann Wenner;
  • film maker Sofia Coppola;
  • writers:
    • Tom Wolfe,
    • Ken Follet.

• Charvet has also been associated with customers in a controversial way:
  • Irish politician Charles Haughey,
  • French philosopher Bernard-Henri Lévy,, whose unbuttoned shirts are specially designed with "collars that withstand the unbuttoning and never disappear under his jacket".

References

1. "All tied up". Daily Mail. January 12, 2007. Retrieved 2008-10-19.
2. ^ Hanover, Jérôme (Aug. 6, 2007). "Charvet, une chemise qui se hausse du col". Le Figaro (in French). {{cite news}}: Check date values in: |date= (help); Unknown parameter |accesdate= ignored (|access-date= suggested) (help)
3. ^ Chaille, François ((1994). "The book of ties", p.119. Flammarion, Paris. ISBN 2080135686
4. ^ Vergani, Guido (1999). Dizionario della moda (in Italian). Baldini & Castoldi, Milano. p. p.152. ISBN 8880895850. {{cite book}}: |page= has extra text (help)
5. Drake, Alicia (2001). A Shopper's Guide to Paris Fashion, p.30. Interlink Pub. Group. ISBN 156656378X,
6. Nowell, Iris (2004). Generation Deluxe: Consumerism and Philanthropy of the New Super-rich, p.137. Dundurn Press Ltd. ISBN 1550025031
7. ^ Gavenas, Mary Lisa (2008). Encyclopedia of Menswear, p.86. Fairchild Publications, New York. ISBN 9781563674655
8. Brady, James (April 18, 2005). "Brady's Bunch; U.S. through French eyes". Advertising Age.
9. Warrant of Proveedor de la Real Casa granted in 1913
10. Morand, Paul (1931). 1900 A.D.. W. F. Payson
11. Jones Arbitman, Kahren & al. (1988). Clayton, the Pittsburgh Home of Henry Clay Frick: Art and Furnishings , p.61. Helen Clay Frick Foundation. ISBN 082296905X
12. Munhall, Edgar (1995). Whistler and Montesquiou: The Butterfly and the Bat, p.145. Frick Collection
13. Bryk, William (June 22, 2005). "King of the Dudes". The New York Sun. Retrieved 2008-11-11.
14. Spencer, Charles & al. (1974). The World of Serge Diaghilev, p.21. Regnery, Washington. ISBN 0809283050
15. Bulteau, Michel (1988). Paul Morand (in French). Editions du Rocher. p. 32. ISBN 2268006557.
16. Patner, Josh (June 4, 2005). "What's my line". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
17. Hall, Desmond (1965). I Give You Oscar Wilde: A Biographical Novel, p. 335. A. Barker
18. Symonds, John (1989). The King of the Shadow Realm: Aleister Crowley, His Life and Magic, p. 362. Duckworth. ISBN 0715622838
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20. Acton, Harold (1948). Memoirs of an Aesthete, p. 155. Methuen
21. Marchant, William (1975). The Privilege of His Company: Noël Coward Remembered, p. 258. Bobbs-Merrill. ISBN 0672519739
22. Pryce-Jones, David (1973). Evelyn Waugh and His Worldp.35. Weidenfeld and Nicolson. ISBN 0297765701
23. Jackson Lears, T.J. (1994). No Place of Grace: Antimodernism and the Transformation of American Culture, 1880-1920 p. 226. University of Chicago Press. ISBN 0226469700
24. Lumet Buckley, Gail (1986). The Hornes: An American Family, p. 186. Knopf. ISBN 0394513061
25. ^ Flusser, Alan (October 1982). "The Shirt Maker". TWA Ambassador.
26. Wilder, Billy (2001). Billy Wilder: Interviews, p. 24. University Press of Mississippi. ISBN 1578064449
27. Breslin, Jimmy (1991). Damon Runyon: A Life, p.347. Ticknor & Fields. ISBN 0899199844
28. Gosch, Martin A (1975). The last testament of Lucky Luciano, p.74. Macmillan. ISBN 0333177509
29. "Vente Mitterand" (PDF) (in French). Retrieved 2008-10-03.
30. Probst, Jean-François (2007). Chirac, mon ami de trente ans (in French). Denoel, Paris. p. ch. 6. ISBN 2207258246.
31. Giesbert, Franz-Olivier (March 15, 2007). "Mon Marseille à moi - Jean-Claude Gaudin". Le Point (in French). Retrieved 2008-10-25.
32. Foulkes, Nicholas (February 16, 2003). "Getting Shirty". The Mail on Sunday.
33. Welles, Benjamin (1997). Sumner Welles: Fdr's Global Strategist : A Biography. St Martin's Press, New York. ISBN 0312174403
34. Apple, R.W. "The President under Fire: The Power Broker; Jordan Trades Stories With Clinton, and Offers Counsel". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21. {{cite news}}: Unknown parameter |Date= ignored (|date= suggested) (help)
35. Zorn, Eric (May31, 2007). "Gov. Nocommentevich". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2008-10-19. {{cite news}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
36. Goldman, Andrew (June 5, 2003). "Beware The Gift That Bites Back". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-04.
37. Gayford, Martin (2000). "The Grove Book of Art Writing", p.169 . Grove Press. ISBN 0802137202
38. Aragon, Louis. Henri Matisse, roman (in French). Gallimard. p. p. 27. {{cite book}}: |page= has extra text (help)
39. Friedman, Vanessa (May 5 2007). "Francois-Henri Pinault - Man of affluence". Financial Times. Retrieved 2008-10-09. {{cite news}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
40. Fox, Sue (May 20, 2007). "A life in the day: David Tang". The Sunday Times. Retrieved 2008-10-09.
41. Noiret, Philippe (2007). Mémoires cavalières (in French). Laffont. p. 7. ISBN 2221107934.
42. Körzdörfer, Norbert (June 18, 2007). "Ich umarme jeden Tag den Tod". Bild (in German). Retrieved 2008-10-21.
43. "Paul Anka and his family in Paris". Retrieved 2008-11-15.
44. ^ Soltes, Eileen (April 2007). "Get shirty". Portfolio. Retrieved 2008-10-01.
45. "Enquête sur des agendas au dessus de tout soupçon". L'Officiel Homme (in French). 1979. Retrieved 2008-11-03.
46. Gavenas, Marilise (February 12, 2007). "On the Right Bank; at the Storied House of Charvet, Luxury comes in Superabundance". DNR. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
47. Stimpert, Désirée. "Christian Louboutin Fast Facts". Retrieved 2008-10-09.
48. Bellafante, Ginia (July 3, 2001). "Review/Fashion; In Milan, Too Few Muscles Instead of Too Many". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
49. "'I'm typically male in my approach to clothes. I don't like waste. I like uniform; What's in the wardrobe of one of the UK's top fashion designers?". The Mail on Sunday. December 4, 2005.
50. Hamilton, William L. (August 22, 2004). "Noticed; The Message of the Bottle". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
51. Prain, Susan (July 3, 2000). "Checkout; The writer and style guru Peter York on Duchamp, 75 ledbury". The Independent. Retrieved 2008-10-09.
52. Kuczynski, Alex (September 27, 1999). "Striking Back at the Empire; Wenner Media Takes on the Mighty Time Inc. In Transforming Us to a Monthly Magazine". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
53. Hirschberg, Lynn (September 24, 2006). "Sofia Coppola's Paris". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-08.
54. McGrawth, Charles (October 31, 2004). "Wolfe's World". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-21.
55. de Rosnay, Tatiana (Oct. 21, 2008). "Le Paris de Ken Follett". Le Journal du Dimanche (in French). Retrieved 2008-11-16. {{cite news}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
56. Morahan, Jim (October 13, 2001). "Haughey's former secretary reveals shopping habit". Irish Examiner. Retrieved 2008-10-08.
57. Weber, Caroline (September 2008). "Brains of the outfit". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-10-04.
58. (Ireland, Doug (March 3, 2006). "The lies of Bernard-Henry Lévy". In these times. Retrieved 2008-11-16.)