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Broad Peak

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Eight-thousander and 12th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Pakistan and China For the 2022 Polish Netflix film, see Broad Peak (film).
Broad Peak
Falchan Kangri
Broad Peak from Concordia
Highest point
Elevation8,051 m (26,414 ft)
Ranked 12th
Prominence1,701 m (5,581 ft)
Listing
Coordinates35°48′42″N 76°33′54″E / 35.81167°N 76.56500°E / 35.81167; 76.56500
Naming
Native nameبروڈ پیک (Urdu)
Geography
Broad Peak is located in KarakoramBroad PeakBroad PeakLocation of Broad PeakShow map of KarakoramBroad Peak is located in Gilgit BaltistanBroad PeakBroad PeakBroad Peak (Gilgit Baltistan)Show map of Gilgit BaltistanBroad Peak is located in Southern XinjiangBroad PeakBroad PeakBroad Peak (Southern Xinjiang)Show map of Southern Xinjiang
About OpenStreetMapsMaps: terms of use 45km
30miles Pakistan India ChinaGasherbrum V 48Gasherbrum VRimo III 47Rimo IIIApsarasas Kangri I 46Apsarasas Kangri IDiran 45DiranMuztagh Tower 44Muztagh TowerK6 43K6Yutmaru Sar 42Yutmaru SarBaintha Brakk 41Baintha BrakkCrown Peak 40Crown PeakBaltoro Kangri 39Baltoro KangriYazghil Dome South 38Yazghil Dome SouthSherpi Kangri 37Sherpi KangriRimo I, Rimo massif 36Rimo I, Rimo massifUltar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar 35Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar SarGhent Kangri 34Ghent KangriHaramosh Peak 33Haramosh PeakSkil Brum 32Skil BrumMomhil Sar 31Momhil SarSia Kangri 30Sia KangriK12 29K12Malubiting 28MalubitingTeram Kangri I 27Teram Kangri IYukshin Gardan Sar 26Yukshin Gardan SarPassu Sar 25Passu SarPumari Chhish 24Pumari ChhishSaser Kangri III 23Saser Kangri IIISaser Kangri II 22Saser Kangri IIMamostong Kangri K35 21Mamostong Kangri K35Skyang Kangri 20Skyang KangriTrivor Sar 19Trivor SarShispare or Shispare Sar 18Shispare or Shispare SarChogolisa 17ChogolisaSaser Kangri I, K22 16Saser Kangri I, K22Batura III 15Batura IIISaltoro Kangri, K10 14Saltoro Kangri, K10Kanjut Sar 13Kanjut SarBatura II 12Batura IIRakaposhi 11RakaposhiBatura Sar, Batura I 10Batura Sar, Batura IMasherbrum, K1 9Masherbrum, K1Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish) 8Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)Distaghil Sar 7Distaghil SarGasherbrum IV, K3 6Gasherbrum IV, K3Gasherbrum III, K3a 5Gasherbrum III, K3aGasherbrum II, K4 4Gasherbrum II, K4Broad Peak 3Broad Peak Gasherbrum I, K5 2Gasherbrum I, K5 K2 1K2  The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend：
1：K2,  2：Gasherbrum I, K5,  3：Broad Peak,  4：Gasherbrum II, K4,  5：Gasherbrum III, K3a,  6：Gasherbrum IV, K3,  7：Distaghil Sar,  8：Kunyang Chhish,  9：Masherbrum, K1,  10：Batura Sar, Batura I,  11：Rakaposhi,  12：Batura II,  13：Kanjut Sar,  14：Saltoro Kangri, K10,  15：Batura III,  16： Saser Kangri I, K22,  17：Chogolisa,  18：Shispare,  19：Trivor Sar,  20：Skyang Kangri,  21：Mamostong Kangri, K35,  22：Saser Kangri II,  23：Saser Kangri III,  24：Pumari Chhish,  25：Passu Sar,  26：Yukshin Gardan Sar,  27：Teram Kangri I,  28：Malubiting,  29：K12,  30：Sia Kangri,  31：Momhil Sar,  32：Skil Brum,  33：Haramosh Peak,  34：Ghent Kangri,  35：Ultar Sar,  36：Rimo massif,  37：Sherpi Kangri,  38：Yazghil Dome South,  39：Baltoro Kangri,  40：Crown Peak,  41：Baintha Brakk,  42：Yutmaru Sar,  43：K6,  44：Muztagh Tower,  45：Diran,  46：Apsarasas Kangri I,  47：Rimo III,  48：Gasherbrum V

 
Location of Broad Peak
LocationBaltistan, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Tashkurgan, Xinjiang, China
China–Pakistan border
Parent rangeKarakoram
Climbing
First ascentJune 9, 1957 by an Austrian team
(First winter ascent 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek)
Easiest routesnow/ice climb
Broad Peak
Traditional Chinese布洛阿特峰
Transcriptions

Broad Peak (Balti: ཕ༹ལ་ཆན་གངས་རི་།, romanized: Falchan Kangri, lit. 'Broad Peak'; Urdu: بروڈ پیک) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with 8,051 metres (26,414 ft) elevation above sea level. The first ascent of this mountain was in June 1957, accomplished by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl as part of an Austrian expedition.

Geography

Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan situated on the border of Pakistan and China. It is located in the Karakoram mountain range, approximately eight kilometres (five miles) from K2. The peak's name aptly describes its physical characteristics, with a summit that extends over 1.5 kilometers (7⁄8 miles) in length, giving it the appearance of a "broad peak."

Three of the mountain's five summits are eight-thousanders: Broad Peak (8051 m), Rocky Summit (8028 m), Broad Peak Central (8011 m), with Broad Peak North (7490 m), and Kharut Kangri (6942 m) being the other two peaks.

Etymology

The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Falchan Kangri is not used among the Balti people. The English name was introduced in 1892 by the British explorer Martin Conway, in reference to the similarly named Breithorn in the Alps.

Climbing history

The first ascent of Broad Peak was achieved between June 8 and 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). The first ascent took the West Spur and was accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high-altitude porters, or base camp support.

In July 2007, an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.

In 2008, French mountaineer Élisabeth Revol made solo ascents of Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II within 16 days and without the aid of supplemental oxygen.

In the winter and summer of 2009, there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna.

In the summer of 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000", a Slovenian team led by Gregor Lačen, summitted the mountain without supplementary oxygen or high-altitude porters. They established a route in deep snow from Camp 4 to the summit, used by seven additional climbers from other expeditions. All summitted on July 31, 2012.

On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent and conquered the mountain peak without oxygen during the winter. Broad Peak was the twelfth eight-thousander summited in wintertime and the tenth eight-thousander first summitted in winter by the Polish climbers. During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m) and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki, said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalski. On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended.

In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them — Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi — ascended successfully but during the descent all three of them were lost and declared dead.

On July 23, 2016, Frenchman Antoine Girard's paraglider flight over Broad Peak was the first time a paraglider had flown above an 8,000-metre summit.

On July 14, 2019, 17-year-old Shehroze Kashif from Pakistan became the youngest ever to summit this peak.

Timeline

  • 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer of Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.
  • 1957 First ascent by an Austrian expedition.
  • 1982 Reinhold Messner summits.
  • 1983 First ascent by a woman, Krystyna Palmowska.
  • 1984 Broad Peak climbed in one-day (solo) by Krzysztof Wielicki in 21.5 hours; the first one-day ascent of an 8000-meter peak.
  • 1988 March 6, Maciej Berbeka climbs to the 'Rocky Summit' (8028 m), becoming the first person to reach one of the summits of Broad Peak over 8000m during the winter.
  • 1992 On August 4, Enric Dalmau Ferré, Òscar Cadiach, Alberto Soncini and Lluís Ràfols were the first to reach the summit from the Chinese side.
  • 1994 On July 9, Carlos Carsolio reached the summit, establishing a new solo route now known as Route Carsolio.
  • 1997 On July 7, Anatoli Boukreev achieved a solo ascent.
  • 2013 On March 5, first winter ascent by Polish expedition.
  • 2013 July, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi of Iran ascended through a new route, named Route Iran.
  • 2014 Hunza Expedition to Broad Peak made the summit on 23 July 2014, Karim Hayat reached to main summit and Naseer Uddin turned back from Rocky summit. Karim Hayat became the first person from his village who reached 8000 m.
  • 2019 July 14, Shehroze Kashif at the age of 17 became the youngest ever to summit this peak. He also became the youngest Pakistani to reach this altitude.
  • 2019 July 26, Nirmal Purja summits Broad-Peak with his team 'Elite Exped', as part of his expedition to climb all 14 peaks exceeding 8000m in a record time of less than 7 months.
  • 2023 Nirmal Purja and Migma G summit Broad Peak as part of an effort to climb all 14 8,000 meter peaks with supplemental oxygen.

Passes

Windy Gap is a 6,111-metre (20,049 ft)-high mountain pass 35°52′23″N 76°34′37″E / 35.87318°N 76.57692°E / 35.87318; 76.57692 at east of K2, north of Broad Peak, and south of Skyang Kangri.

See also

References

  1. ^ "Broad Peak". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
  2. "Broad Peak: 12th Highest Mountain in the World". About.com. Archived from the original on 2016-04-16. Retrieved 2011-08-20.
  3. "Broad Peak". Peakware.com. Archived from the original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  4. ^ "Broad Peak: Some background and History". Everest News. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  5. Richard Sale and John Cleare, Climbing the World's 14 Highest Mountains: The History of the 8, 000-Meter Peaks, The Mountaineers, 2000
  6. „Broad Peak 2007“ Archived 2017-09-22 at the Wayback Machine Expedition in memoriam Markus Kronthaler, June to August 2007 (German)
  7. "Highest-Altitude Body Recovery in History". Alpinist. 25 July 2007. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  8. "Portrait of Elisabeth Revol". BLUE ICE. 2017-01-04. Retrieved 2019-09-22.
  9. "Broad Peak update: Cristina Castagna lost on descent from C4 - no summits confirmed yet". Explorer's Web. Archived from the original on 2021-04-17. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  10. "Koroska 8000 - Broad Peak". Climbing in Slovenia. Archived from the original on 2016-03-14. Retrieved 2016-03-14.
  11. "Polish mountaineers make first winter ascent of Broad Peak". thenews.pl. 5 March 2013. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  12. "Head of expedition says no chance of finding alive 2 Polish climbers missing in Himalayas". Associated Press. 7 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-08.
  13. "Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski". Planetmountain. 8 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-09.
  14. Griffin, Lindsay (2013). "Broad Peak (8,047m), first winter ascent and tragedy". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 18 February 2024.
  15. "Iranian Broad Peak New Route: Complications on Descent". Explorer's Web. Archived from the original on 2021-04-17. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
  16. "Rescue attempts for Iranian climbers".
  17. "Antoine Girard breaks 8,100m in Karakoram - Cross Country Magazine – In the Core since 1988". xcmag.com. 26 July 2016. Retrieved 30 June 2018.
  18. Antoine Girard (1 August 2016). "Broad Peak". Archived from the original on 2021-12-21. Retrieved 30 June 2018 – via YouTube.
  19. "Antoine Girard - Objectif X-Alps 2017". www.antoinegirard.fr. Retrieved 30 June 2018.
  20. ^ Rizvi, Raza (2019-07-20). "17-Year-Old Becomes the Youngest Pakistani to Summit 8000m Mountain". Retrieved 2019-09-23.
  21. "First ascent". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
  22. "Krystyna Palmowska o zdobyciu Broad Peak" [Krystyna Palmowska on reaching Broad Peak: we got hot on this mountain] (in Polish). July 2013. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
  23. "Nanga Parbat, First Ladies-only Ascent". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 1986. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
  24. All 14 Eight-Thousanders. Mountaineers Books. 1999. p. 144. ISBN 978-0-89886-660-5.
  25. Martin, Laura (13 September 2022). "The True Story of Netflix's 'Broad Peak': What Happened To Maciej Berbeka?". Esquire. Retrieved 18 February 2024.
  26. "Kurt Diemberger". 3 August 2017. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
  27. Carsolio, Carlos (1995). "On the Brink on Broad Peak". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2020-12-14.
  28. "Broad Peak 8047m Austrian Karakoram Expedition 1957". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 23 October 2017.
  29. "Anatoli Boukreev Summits Fourth 8,000-meter Peak in 80 Days". Mountain Zone. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
  30. "Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!". planetmountain.com. May 3, 2013. Retrieved 2013-07-24.

Further reading

  • Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
  • Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
  • Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books, ISBN 0-89886-408-9
  • Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munchen. Afterword by Kurt Diemberger describes the Broad Peak expedition.
  • Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by Dušan Jelinčič, ISBN 961-6387-75-8
  • Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5
  • Jacek Hugo-Bader, Długi film o miłości. Powrót na Broad Peak, Polish published by Znak, Cracow 2014, ISBN 978-83-240-2993-8

External links

Eight-thousanders (and major subsidiary peaks over 8,000m)
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